How often do I water my orchids?
That is a very tricky question. It is dependent on the orchids' origin, cultural requirements, environment, medium, and seasonal conditions.
Orchids come from all over the world and grow in a variety of climates. The plant's watering needs will depend on many factors. Are you growing them in a greenhouse, outside, or inside your home? Which medium the plant is growing in? Is the orchid potted in bark, potted in moss, or mounted on cork? Is the plant in a clay pot, a plastic pot, or a hanging basket? Is there good airflow around the plant? And finally, what are the specific needs of the orchid variety in question?
Factors influencing retaining moisture longer are: poor drainage, moss, fine potting medium, fine grade bark, plastic pots, low airflow, low light and cool temperatures.
Factors influencing drying out quickly are: good drainage, coarse potting medium, large grade bark, clay pots, open baskets, wood/cork/rock mounts, high airflow, bright light, and hot temperatures.
General advice for the most common orchids such as Oncidiums, Cattleyas and Phalaenopsis: Water once a week, let the water drain out. If the plant is in moss or the potting medium is still damp, wait longer between waterings. If the plant is mounted then it will be need to be watered more than once a week, up to every couple of days in summer.
The time of the year will make a difference. Hot, dry summer days require more frequent waterings. Are the winter days cold and dry or damp? Does the orchid requires winter rest?
Of course, there are some orchids that like to stay wet all the time.
A note about watering with ice cubes: while some orchid owners have had success in the short term, we do not advise using ice cubes to water your plants. Orchid roots can be damaged by cold; these plants primarily come from hot humid environments, and are not adapted to tolerate exposure to freezing conditions.
We encourage you to ask us questions and do your own research to find out more about your orchid.
Are orchids outdoor plants?
For the vast majority of the plants we sell at Brookside Orchids, the answer is NO. But there are exceptions.
If you live in tropical climate, then you probably could grow many of our orchids outside year around.
Most of our orchids will do best in greenhouses or indoors, where they are sheltered from the elements and from temperatures below 60°F. You can keep your orchids outside during warm weather as long as they are sheltered from direct sun, extreme heat, and chilly nights.
We do sell cool-growing orchids that like to be outside in temperate climates. Cymbidiums, Dendrobium kingianum and certain types or Cattleya and Stanhopea can be grown outside year around if your winter temperatures don't dip much below 40°F for an extended periods. Orchids will not survive frost or snow.
Again we recommend that you ask questions and do research to figure out the best culture for your orchids.
Buds suddenly died and fell off, what happened?
This is known as 'bud blast.'
There are several factors that can cause this: incorrect watering, low light, sudden changes in light or temperature, or pests.
Sometimes the developing bud can be damaged by getting caught under its own sheath or other plant leaves. Unfortunately, once the buds start to wither and turn yellow, the process cannot be stopped.
We recommend treating pests if the plant is infested. If the problem is under watering or low light, change your orchids culture. Try to keep the orchid in an environment where temperatures and light do not fluctuate quickly. Try not to move your orchid while buds are developing. In nature, plants do not move from their initial location. If the problem is overwatering, we recommend checking the roots of the plant for rot, there maybe more serious damage that is not yet visible in the plant.
Do I need to sterilize my cutting tools?
YES.
It is a good practice to get into. Diseases are very easily spread with dirty tools. Sterilize tools for each plant. Wipe blades with soap and hot water, hold blades over open flame for a few seconds and place on heat-safe surface to cool off. Once tools are cool, you can work on your plant. Repeat the process for each plant.
We recommend getting rid of diseased plants. Even an insect can transmit a disease from one plant to another, it's not worth the risk.
Eww I have bugs. What are they and how do I get them off my orchids?
Different insects like different plants and plant parts, but the most common orchid pests: are aphids, mealybugs, scale, and spider mites.
Aphids: small, soft bodied insects with black legs and yellow/green or black bodies. Aphids like to eat the newest growth, so may be found on growth tips and backs of flowers. You may not see the live ones, but instead will find a dusting of old white skins on the surface of leaves or bark. Check underneath the leaves and flowers to find the live ones. Most are wingless, but may develop wings and migrate to new plants if too crowded. Aphids provide food to ants; the ants will happily farm them in your orchid.
Mealybugs: are small, soft-bodied insects whose bodies are covered in a fluffy, cotton-like exterior. If seen before this wooly coat develops, they are usually quite flat and grey colored. They tend to congregate in cracks and crevices in leaf joints and folds, or at the main vein underneath leaves. They may live in large fluffy colonies.
Scale: are small insects whose bodies are rarely seen as the soft body is hidden under a hard shell. They are stationary, living under their shield and sucking the sap from the leaf they live on. The 'scale' is usually yellowy brown to black, and visible on either side of the leaf. Juvenile scale are so small they can travel between pots and plants on air currents.
Spider Mites: are a tiny sucking insect almost invisible to the naked eye; in large colonies they may show up as red or black dust. The most obvious sign is the 'spider web' that will cover the underside of the leaf where they are living. Upon inspection with a magnifying glass, spider mites are usually seen close to the vein of the leaf.
To remove: a natural way to remove the insects from your plants is to use fingers or a Q-tip to rub them off. If there is a large infestation that you wish to spray, it has been suggested that rubbing alcohol mixed with water and dish soap can be used in a spray bottle. Spray the entire plant and potting medium liberally. Scale will not be affected unless the shield is removed first (and that usually squishes them anyway.) Some of the juvenile insects are so small, they can drift on air currents to infect surrounding plants. If you find these pests on one plant, the surrounding plants are very likely infected as well. It is advised that you inspect neighboring plants, and treating them as soon as any pests are discovered.
Please feel free to email the nursery a picture of the infect plant, and we will be happy to advise you on the best course of action.
My orchid is done flowering, what do I do?
For most orchids, you can cut the flower spike once the flowers are done. We recommend sterilizing tools for each plant. Wipe blades with soap and hot water, hold blades over open flame for a few seconds and place on heat-safe surface to cool off. Once tools are cool, you can trim the spikes of your plant. Repeat for each plant.
Will my Phalaenopsis spike flower again? Yes, it can.
If the flower spike remains firm and green, it can grow more spikes off the original. Each consecutive spike will be smaller with fewer flowers. Eventually, the plant will need to rest and may not bloom again for some time. At Brookside, we prefer to cut the original spike to encourage the plant to grow a new, full size spike from the base of the plant.
There are sequentially blooming orchids. Some Paphiopedilums, Psychopsis and Encyclia cochleata, etc. will make new buds behind the current flower. We recommend you let them keep blooming until the spike turns yellow, then it is done.
That is a very tricky question. It is dependent on the orchids' origin, cultural requirements, environment, medium, and seasonal conditions.
Orchids come from all over the world and grow in a variety of climates. The plant's watering needs will depend on many factors. Are you growing them in a greenhouse, outside, or inside your home? Which medium the plant is growing in? Is the orchid potted in bark, potted in moss, or mounted on cork? Is the plant in a clay pot, a plastic pot, or a hanging basket? Is there good airflow around the plant? And finally, what are the specific needs of the orchid variety in question?
Factors influencing retaining moisture longer are: poor drainage, moss, fine potting medium, fine grade bark, plastic pots, low airflow, low light and cool temperatures.
Factors influencing drying out quickly are: good drainage, coarse potting medium, large grade bark, clay pots, open baskets, wood/cork/rock mounts, high airflow, bright light, and hot temperatures.
General advice for the most common orchids such as Oncidiums, Cattleyas and Phalaenopsis: Water once a week, let the water drain out. If the plant is in moss or the potting medium is still damp, wait longer between waterings. If the plant is mounted then it will be need to be watered more than once a week, up to every couple of days in summer.
The time of the year will make a difference. Hot, dry summer days require more frequent waterings. Are the winter days cold and dry or damp? Does the orchid requires winter rest?
Of course, there are some orchids that like to stay wet all the time.
A note about watering with ice cubes: while some orchid owners have had success in the short term, we do not advise using ice cubes to water your plants. Orchid roots can be damaged by cold; these plants primarily come from hot humid environments, and are not adapted to tolerate exposure to freezing conditions.
We encourage you to ask us questions and do your own research to find out more about your orchid.
Are orchids outdoor plants?
For the vast majority of the plants we sell at Brookside Orchids, the answer is NO. But there are exceptions.
If you live in tropical climate, then you probably could grow many of our orchids outside year around.
Most of our orchids will do best in greenhouses or indoors, where they are sheltered from the elements and from temperatures below 60°F. You can keep your orchids outside during warm weather as long as they are sheltered from direct sun, extreme heat, and chilly nights.
We do sell cool-growing orchids that like to be outside in temperate climates. Cymbidiums, Dendrobium kingianum and certain types or Cattleya and Stanhopea can be grown outside year around if your winter temperatures don't dip much below 40°F for an extended periods. Orchids will not survive frost or snow.
Again we recommend that you ask questions and do research to figure out the best culture for your orchids.
Buds suddenly died and fell off, what happened?
This is known as 'bud blast.'
There are several factors that can cause this: incorrect watering, low light, sudden changes in light or temperature, or pests.
Sometimes the developing bud can be damaged by getting caught under its own sheath or other plant leaves. Unfortunately, once the buds start to wither and turn yellow, the process cannot be stopped.
We recommend treating pests if the plant is infested. If the problem is under watering or low light, change your orchids culture. Try to keep the orchid in an environment where temperatures and light do not fluctuate quickly. Try not to move your orchid while buds are developing. In nature, plants do not move from their initial location. If the problem is overwatering, we recommend checking the roots of the plant for rot, there maybe more serious damage that is not yet visible in the plant.
Do I need to sterilize my cutting tools?
YES.
It is a good practice to get into. Diseases are very easily spread with dirty tools. Sterilize tools for each plant. Wipe blades with soap and hot water, hold blades over open flame for a few seconds and place on heat-safe surface to cool off. Once tools are cool, you can work on your plant. Repeat the process for each plant.
We recommend getting rid of diseased plants. Even an insect can transmit a disease from one plant to another, it's not worth the risk.
Eww I have bugs. What are they and how do I get them off my orchids?
Different insects like different plants and plant parts, but the most common orchid pests: are aphids, mealybugs, scale, and spider mites.
Aphids: small, soft bodied insects with black legs and yellow/green or black bodies. Aphids like to eat the newest growth, so may be found on growth tips and backs of flowers. You may not see the live ones, but instead will find a dusting of old white skins on the surface of leaves or bark. Check underneath the leaves and flowers to find the live ones. Most are wingless, but may develop wings and migrate to new plants if too crowded. Aphids provide food to ants; the ants will happily farm them in your orchid.
Mealybugs: are small, soft-bodied insects whose bodies are covered in a fluffy, cotton-like exterior. If seen before this wooly coat develops, they are usually quite flat and grey colored. They tend to congregate in cracks and crevices in leaf joints and folds, or at the main vein underneath leaves. They may live in large fluffy colonies.
Scale: are small insects whose bodies are rarely seen as the soft body is hidden under a hard shell. They are stationary, living under their shield and sucking the sap from the leaf they live on. The 'scale' is usually yellowy brown to black, and visible on either side of the leaf. Juvenile scale are so small they can travel between pots and plants on air currents.
Spider Mites: are a tiny sucking insect almost invisible to the naked eye; in large colonies they may show up as red or black dust. The most obvious sign is the 'spider web' that will cover the underside of the leaf where they are living. Upon inspection with a magnifying glass, spider mites are usually seen close to the vein of the leaf.
To remove: a natural way to remove the insects from your plants is to use fingers or a Q-tip to rub them off. If there is a large infestation that you wish to spray, it has been suggested that rubbing alcohol mixed with water and dish soap can be used in a spray bottle. Spray the entire plant and potting medium liberally. Scale will not be affected unless the shield is removed first (and that usually squishes them anyway.) Some of the juvenile insects are so small, they can drift on air currents to infect surrounding plants. If you find these pests on one plant, the surrounding plants are very likely infected as well. It is advised that you inspect neighboring plants, and treating them as soon as any pests are discovered.
Please feel free to email the nursery a picture of the infect plant, and we will be happy to advise you on the best course of action.
My orchid is done flowering, what do I do?
For most orchids, you can cut the flower spike once the flowers are done. We recommend sterilizing tools for each plant. Wipe blades with soap and hot water, hold blades over open flame for a few seconds and place on heat-safe surface to cool off. Once tools are cool, you can trim the spikes of your plant. Repeat for each plant.
Will my Phalaenopsis spike flower again? Yes, it can.
If the flower spike remains firm and green, it can grow more spikes off the original. Each consecutive spike will be smaller with fewer flowers. Eventually, the plant will need to rest and may not bloom again for some time. At Brookside, we prefer to cut the original spike to encourage the plant to grow a new, full size spike from the base of the plant.
There are sequentially blooming orchids. Some Paphiopedilums, Psychopsis and Encyclia cochleata, etc. will make new buds behind the current flower. We recommend you let them keep blooming until the spike turns yellow, then it is done.